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WATER CONDITIONING TROUBLESHOOTING
 

C - WATER WAS SOFT BUT NOW FEELS HARD

WHAT TO CHECK HOW TO CORRECT
No salt in brine tank? Add salt to brine tank and maintain salt level above water level. Manually regenerate and allow softener to go through all regeneration cycles.
Electrical service to unit has been interrupted. Assure permanent electricity is going to units valve. Reset time of day.
Has softener valve head been programmed to regenerate after installation? See valve programming instructions. Have water properly tested and diagnosed for correct setting.
Has the by-pass been used and not connected back into service? Make sure the red lever of the brass by-pass valve is in the service position. On a 3-valve by-pass position, open the inlet and outlet valves and close the by-pass valve.
Salt is bridging in tank. Salt in bottom of tank has hardened and is not allowing water/salt mixture to get to the bottom of salt and consequently over to mineral tank. Do not fill salt tank completely (3/4 full). Use a stick or broom handle and poke into salt, making sure it is broken up.
Salt tube going from salt tank to mineral tank is plugged or insufficient water flowing into brine tank? Put unit into “Brine Rinse” position. Make sure salt water flows uninterrupted from salt tank to mineral tank. Clean or replace brass brine valve. Clean and unplug necessary line so water flows uninterrupted.
Brine salt line and connections not allowing salt solution into mineral tank to regenerate. Visually check tubing for cracks or kinks. Check fittings for proper assembly and tightness as diagrammed.
Injector or injector screen is plugged. Put softener in by-pass position and de-pressurize the unit by putting into “Backwash” position. There will be 2 screws on neck of valve near where the salt rinse line goes into softener. Remove the 2 screws, clean screen and remove any chunks of salt, etc.
Line pressure is too low. Line pressure must be at least 20 PSI at all times.
Is backwash water flowing freely down to drain with an air gap and no back siphoning? Put valve into “Backwash” position and follow water flow down to drain.
 
Too much iron or tannins has fouled the bed. A water softener is only effective for up to 4 parts of iron and limited to 5 ppm yellowish colored tannins. Draw water before it goes into and after it flows through softener. Have both samples tested to see if iron is being removed or if mineral bed is already coated and fouled.
Salt level setting on valve head is set too low. Verify salt setting and adjust as necessary (consult factory.)
Valve head or timer is not cycling. Shut off water supply, depressurize tank, unplug unit and replace valve head motor.
Has softening mineral been exposed to freezing? Freezing weather causes the resin to become ineffective. Replace resin, properly insulate and shield unit from direct elements and freezing.
Leak in distributor tube. Check for cracks in distributor tube. Check “O” ring and tube inlet in bottom of valve. Replace if necessary.

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